The world of horology is abuzz with the unveiling of two new movement families by Manufacture AMT, the sister company of Sellita. This announcement marks a significant moment in the industry, as AMT steps into the spotlight with its exclusive and high-end offerings. In this article, we delve into the story behind AMT, its unique position in the market, and the implications of its new movements for the future of watchmaking.
AMT's Unique Position in the Market
AMT, an independent and younger company, has carved out a niche for itself by specializing in the development and manufacturing of higher-grade movements for brands seeking custom-designed calibres. This shift in market perception has been driven by the emergence of alternative movement manufacturers, such as La Joux-Perret, Concepto, Kenissi, and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. These companies offer brands a way to differentiate themselves through their movements, and AMT has positioned itself as a key player in this space.
One of the key advantages of AMT is its ability to leverage Sellita's industrial strength and vertical integration. Sellita, a pivotal player in the Swiss watchmaking ecosystem, has developed into a fully integrated movement manufacturer and a true industrial powerhouse. This allows AMT to access a wide range of components, including strategic or high-value-added parts such as escapements and ball bearings, while maintaining a highly competitive price-to-quality ratio.
However, AMT's exclusivity is a double-edged sword. The company only works with significant production volumes (typically 1,000 pieces), which creates a barrier to entry for brands seeking access to its movements. This exclusivity is justified by the nature of AMT's operations and its intention to preserve a certain level of exclusivity around its developments. Nevertheless, it raises questions about the accessibility and inclusivity of the watchmaking industry.
The New Calibres: AMT 7000 and AMT 8000
The two new movements unveiled by AMT, the AMT 7000 and AMT 8000, are a testament to the company's level of quality and development capabilities. The AMT 7000, a calibre developed to achieve a ten-year interval before its first service, measures 30mm in diameter and 4.60mm in thickness. Every wheel is jewel-mounted, for a total of 30 rubies, and the movement incorporates two ball bearings and two clutches. This system ensures smooth operations and preserves the longevity of the system when the automatic watch is wound manually.
The AMT 8000, on the other hand, is a manually wound calibre offering ten days of power reserve. It measures 30mm in diameter and 6.45mm in thickness (or 6.95mm with a power reserve indication). The core architecture is built around the use of four barrels, which deliver torque directly to the regulating organ and support the main barrel, making it possible to achieve the full ten-day autonomy. This movement is particularly rare for its combination of a high frequency of 4Hz and a high inertia balance of 8 mg·cm².
Implications for the Future of Watchmaking
The unveiling of the AMT 7000 and AMT 8000 has significant implications for the future of watchmaking. For one, it highlights the importance of customization and innovation in the industry. Brands are increasingly seeking unique calibres to differentiate themselves, and AMT is well-positioned to meet this demand.
However, the exclusivity of AMT's movements raises questions about the accessibility and inclusivity of the watchmaking industry. As the industry continues to evolve, it is essential to ensure that all brands, regardless of their size or resources, have access to the tools and resources they need to create high-quality watches. This includes access to movement suppliers like AMT.
In conclusion, the unveiling of the AMT 7000 and AMT 8000 is a significant moment in the world of horology. It highlights the importance of customization and innovation in the industry, but also raises questions about the accessibility and inclusivity of the watchmaking industry. As the industry continues to evolve, it is essential to ensure that all brands have access to the tools and resources they need to create high-quality watches. Personally, I think that AMT's new movements are a step in the right direction, but we must also consider the broader implications of exclusivity and accessibility in the watchmaking industry.
